Oh my, my, much has been written on this subject and one could spent hours zooming through the internet and discussing same over a few beers. For more interesting reading go to a library and look at engineering books. It seems that the subject "Engine Oil" will always be discussed and argued over.

In the end, rely on BMWNA’s recommendations. We carry approved oil, and we welcome you to ask us, so we can advise you on the best oil to use for your riding environment and style.

Engine oil has many functions which include lubrication, cooling, and cleaning, just to mention a few.

Engine oil filters are used to remove various substances which are the byproduct of combustion such as carbon, acids etc.

New engines are delivered with a mineral based break-in oil. This is done to aid in the break-in of the piston rings to the cylinder wall itself. It is very important that the piston rings mate to the cylinder wall as soon as possible in order to prevent blow by. BMW engines are finished internally to a high standard meaning that this break-in period is usually quite short. This also includes seating of the valves in the cylinders heads and mating of other engine internal components, drive train components etc.

Ride the new bike with enthusiasm. After starting, allow it to idle for less then 1 minute, then just go and ride it on a country road by varying the engine load and rpm. Remember: light engine load with small throttle openings and constantly changing gears and engine rpm. By the time 600 miles are attained, it is time to come in for the 600 mile service, since the oil molecules will be more or less sheared due to the new engine components breaking-in. Some oil will be consumed during this time, so check the oil level as indicated in the owner’s manual before each ride and during a gasoline stop. Additionally, be aware that the engine oil warning light is a "flow indicator" and not an oil level light, thus it will go out at approx. 7 psi. of engine oil pressure. If you ride with this light illuminated you have already damaged the engine…ouch.

Additionally, the combustion byproducts may be high due piston rings seating and some piston blow-by. The engine will run rougher, you will notice that, too. It is time to readjust various components to each other again, normal at this time.

It is known that engine wear is the greatest when the engine is cold and until it reaches full operating temperature, which is an oil temperature of somewhere around 200 degrees Fahrenheit. This is when piston blow-by is happening until pistons and rings expand to proper size. Allowing the engine to idle (as to warm it up) will further add to the length of time which allows blow-by to occur, so it is better to ride the bike right away, after start up. Engine oil which is below its operating temperature costs the engine some horsepower to circulate it since the oil is thick. Also during this period of time, the oil does not lubricate as well, so allow the engine oil to come to temperature via moderate engine rpm and loads. Riding the bike too hard with high rpm when cold will force the thick oil out via the crankcase breather system and you will see oil consumption and a carbon build up in the cylinder as a consequence.

Additionally, short distance riding of less then 10 miles one way, is considered "Severe Use", along with constant cold outside temperatures, dusty climates, infrequent riding etc. (engine does not come up to operating temperature). Consider changing engine oil and filter each 3,000 miles if your riding is done in the above mentioned conditions.

Tailor your engine oil viscosity to the lowest outside air temperature encountered in your area, so review the Service and Technical booklet as supplied with the bike.

All engines wear out from the time they are assembled and first started. It is like a lollipop, sooner or later ya get to the end of the great flavor and to the wooden stick. You can prolong this time period by allowing the engine oil to get to temperature, conducting proper/timely maintenance, changing all fluids routinely and just riding the bike often (good reason to get away...ha). We have found that neglect can be very costly in terms to repairs needed to remedy carbon build up, stuck rings, pistons, rust in cylinders etc, just to mention the engine alone.

Synthetic oils (man-made) were developed after WWII for use in jet engines based on operational parameters such as heat in the hot section of the jet engines, severe cold temperatures etc. (Jet engines usually run a oil temp of approx. 180 degrees Fahrenheit).

Because the molecular properties are different, a synthetic oil can tolerate more thermal stress, shear stress, and have better deposit control. Additionally, BMWNA has added maximum wear protection, friction modifiers etc. to their synthetic oils.

BMWNA does not recommend the use of synthetic oil in the engine until 6,000 miles are attained, or until the break-in period (especially the piston rings) has taken place. This is usually indicated by a reduction of engine oil consumption after the initial break-in related oil consumption. It is wise to refrain from using any synthetic engine oil before approx. 18,000 miles or so.

All engines use oil, it is normal since a small amount of oil will always find its way past the rings, valve guides etc.

Certain mineral based oils (dead dinosaur juices) are approved as well. These oils have been fortified to provide enhanced protection against wear, oxidation of the oil, loss of viscosity, and are supplied to us by BMWNA.

CAUTION: BMWNA does not approve the use of any oil marked on the containers as SJ oil, since it does not contain protective ingredients as required by BMW.

You may want to measure your oil temperature before going to a synthetic oil, as usually with oil temperatures consistently above 240 degrees Fahrenheit (as measured in the oil pan), a synthetic oil is indicated, because of its higher thermal stability.

You may be surprised that the BMW engines do not run as hot as perceived while sitting on the bike. Remember that a well designed engine should run an oil temperature of somewhere between 200 and 215 degrees Fahrenheit in order to burn off such combustion byproducts as water.

Engine oil also carries the impurities along with itself, thus it is paramount that the oil be changed along with the oil filter at the recommended intervals, especially in severe use applications. This thinking also applies to brake fluid, coolant and drive line oils.

Lastly, it will be a decision you will have to make, since it is also a matter of economics, in terms of money spent for oil, filters and time.

Again, we will gladly advise you according to your riding environment!